South Indian Peninsula 2010 South Indian Peninsula trip 2-up on a BMW R1200GS
Day -2 Hassan-Kasaragod
Although I was given a longer route with ‘relatively better’ roads from Hassan thru Belur, Charmadi Ghats, Dharmastala, Balthangadi-Mangalore, at the last moment our guest house keeper mentioned he had recently been thru that route and the roads in many parts were bad, so I opted for the ‘conventional & dreaded’ sakleshpur Shiridi ghats route. Well, starting from Hassan, the roads were full of potholes, but once out of the city the roads got better and there was plenty of greenery on either side. Somewhere in between we stopped for refueling as well.
We stop in sakleshpur at Surabhi’s Restaurant for breakfast. A yummy plate of hot idli-vada and we head straight for the shiridi ghats.
As we got into the Shiridi Ghats, well I would better put it as roads just did not exist and it looked like tarmac was probably laid there once upon a time during the Hoysala empire of Belur!!! The ghats ride of 20-30kms was a harrowing bone cracking, bike dismantling ride. But my GS was not complaining and it was handling it effortlessly. I was just cautious not to dent my alloy wheels again as we still had more than 2000kms to go on the trip. The GS behaved like an obedient boy!
Glimpse of the lousy road in Shiridi ghats
With just soil & loose stones, riding the 400 plus kgs of bike, pillion, luggage etc was no easy task esp while overtaking the large tanker trucks & buses just barely few feet away was a scary affair as I had to balance the sliding bike carefully. Some of the unavoidable troughs in this never ending road were so deep, I was constantly scarping my center stand into it inspite the tall ground clearance of the GS. With a fast flowing stream running in the valley along this treacherous road, there are some wonderful scenic spots on the way, but I have to fully concentrate on the road to keep the rubberside down! Finally, intermittent stretches of tarmac were getting visible and we knew the ghats were coming to an end. At the foothill we stop for another tender coconut break. One of the shopkeepers there enquires the price of the bike and when I tell him after customs it should cost about Rupees 2.1 million (US$ 47,000) in India, he gives me a tough look and asks me ‘how do you have the heart to ride such an expensive bike on such a lousy road’. Well, I think some things just can’t be explained… We then head thru unending long & enjoyable curves passing towns of Nelliyadi, Uppinangadi and then the beautifully laid stretch from BC Road that finally lands straight into Mangalore city. In mangalore a close relative is expecting us for lunch at their beautiful home which is located on the edge of a cliff that overlooks mangalore city. The view from their living room is simply breathtaking.
From Bavaria to Mangalore- both have had a long journey….
Now, wouldn’t you call that ‘a living room with a view’…
After enjoying great hospitality & a sumptuous lunch, we say goodbye and head for the city of Kasaragod in the state of Kerala. The road from mangalore to kasaragod has heavy traffic and is generally known to be a fairly accident prone stretch with all the crazy private buses racing each other to pick passengers first between these two cities. We cross the Nethravati river and arrive at the main junction in kasaragod, where the Malabar region begins. A few relatives are waiting for us as that’s where my wife’s family hails from.
Kerala- here we come. Thank god the board doesn’t say- No riding with wife!!
Thanks for waiting Dr. Shakeel
We were also pleasantly surprised to receive a formal welcome bouquet from my wife’s cousin. Thanks Rehana.
We then head to the historic Bekal Fort. I leave the bike in the safe hands of the parking attendant, but as soon as I am heading out of the parking lot, there are people all around the bike touching, feeling & taking pics. As for the Bekal Fort- taking up a space of 40acres, this is the largest fort in the state of Kerala. The place has a steady flow of tourists and is located about 16kms from Kasaragod city. The sea view from the citadel is an absolute treat.
After the fort visit, we head to the picturesque Thalangara fishing harbour for the sunset. It’s a location where many Indian movies are shot.
Wife’s cousins Ashiq & Ijju are our guides/man-friday in Kasaragod
My Red Ruby(GS) posing for some pics at sunset time.
Riding out from Talangara Harbour on the GS
We are staying close by at my wife’s uncle’s place and are treated to some lip-smacking Malabar cuisine & hospitality, lots of chatting and then time to retire to bed.