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19-25
May 2010
Although the idea to tour in one of the most breathtaking
biking roads in the world had been brewing in my
head for more than 10 years now, it always ended
with Some day I will do it. Other priorities
in life always took precedence and this was left
in the back burner. BTW, the other dream rides in
my head still include New Zealand, South
Africa, South India Peninsula ride (hopefully on
my own GS) and probably my final frontier- The mighty
Himalayas someday.
Last
summer on vacation in USA, we traveled by car
thru the back roads of New England and I had decided
that in 2010 I will rent a bike in Boston and
ride all the way to the worlds largest bike touring
rally- The Americade in Lake George. My wife although
not much interested in bikes etc, has always been
very supportive of all my biking fantasies. I
sometimes wonder how she puts up with it as a
non-biker! Thank you Farzana. Anyway, I asked
her if she would like to join me & she instantly
agreed! Come January 2010 when I was thinking
of planning this crazy trip, my wife came up with
the party-spoiler - A ride in June was impossible
as kids schools would have reopened. So she asked
me if we can make it to Europe during second half
of May when kids are still in Vacation, besides,
its comparatively closer to India! This instantly
stirred up my old unfinished fantasy and I said
Europe could be on one condition- We tour the
mighty Alps. DEAL DONE. Then convinced the kids
that mom & dad needed few days for ourselves-
Approved with some reservations ofcourse! All
this said, neither of us had any clue how to go
about this wonder trip...!! Thats when I
told my wife I have another family that will surely
help and so I put up queries on Advrider &
Horizons Unlimited. It is with a tickle in my
heart & a lump in my throat I have to say
that biking brotherhood truly transcends borders,
languages, religions & every other manmade
barrier. The replies I got were so heartwarming
& encouraging that we just had to follow their
suggestions & guidance. Basically, we were
guided to Karl Maier BMW in Munich who rents good
bikes, then we were advised to carry good road
maps (I went with Michelin maps for Germany, Austria
& Italy). GPS is not essential but helps greatly
in larger cities (got a Garmin Zumo660) and one
important book for anybody planning the Alps (The
Alps & Beyond by John Hermann). I was
guided to a few websites as well as many individual
trips undertaken by different riders and some
of them were in contact with me almost on regular
basis to answer the silliest of questions (thanks
Phil & Jim), which were mainly because this
was the first time for me in Europe on a bike;
besides it would be the first time for my wife
with long hours on the saddle; Europe being an
expensive continent, I had to play within a fixed
budget etc etc, so I always had many anxious questions.
Lastly, given the limited space available on a
bike, the things to carry for a week long trip
was another challenge over which I & wife
would have had about 167 arguments. Finally we
decided not to take the kitchen sink!!!!!he he..
The Journey begins
Fast forward few months, with Schengen visas
stamped, bike rental arranged (no hotel reservations-
just walk in to whats within our budget &
sleep for the night) & flight tickets taken
care of, we leave our darling kids Adil &
Amal in the safe custody of grandparents and
here we are sitting at Bangalore International
Airport waiting for our Qatar Airways flight thru
Doha to Munich. The excitement, the tension, happiness,
worries of uncertainties are all running simultaneously
thru my head. What if the baggage doesnt
arrive, what if the GPS goes kaput, what if the
bike breaks down, will the rain spoil the whole
dream trip esp given the weather forecast the
previous few days looked grim, and finally what
if we have a spill
. Then I just put some
positive energy into my head and said- lf we have
decided to take the plunge, we are going all out
& have a blast.
After
an uneventful flight, we arrive into Munich around
noon time on 18 May.
Its summer but the weather is cloudy & cold.
The forecast for last few days was all rains,
but today it was not raining. Fortunately, no
missing bags etc and we are out of the airport
in no time.
Take
a Taxi to Pleining where we have reserved a Bed
& Breakfast accommodation (B&B) at Landgasthof
Hotel Forchammer (thats the only pre-reserved
accommodation for the trip).
This
is close to Karl Maier BMW in Neufinsing from
where we will be renting the bike for the trip.
Its a 40 minute & Euros 60 ride from the airport.
Check into the B&B and my wife goes cold seeing
the large Rhodesian Ridgeback dog owned by Mr.
Forchammer. Anyway, I quickly take my riding gear,
helmet etc and call Karl Maier, who arranges a
car to pick me up. We reach there and its a huge
BMW bike dealership and seems they have been in
this business for almost 3 decades. Meet the owner
Karl Maier
and
his graceful wife Magdalena with whom I have been
exchanging emails in the past for the bike rental
etc. Very friendly people and we have some chit
chat & I am all eager to see the bike that
will be our companion for the coming 7 days. WOW,
wow, wow
Karl shows me a light blue-grey
R1200RT and tells me its the latest 2010
model bike & I am going to be the first person
to be riding this spanking new bike. Yes, this
is the new DOHC engined bike. We soon get thru
the formalities and they put on some protective
stickers etc and I also request him to fix the
mount of
my
Garmin GPS which he happily obliges. As I leave,
Karl again reminds me to be careful and not scratch
the bike as I am the first user of this bike.
BTW, Karl knows his business well & all his
rental fleet is in service only for maximum one
year after which he replaces them with the new
model. So you wont get a bike that is older than
a year. He has a long list of renowned customers
including people such as John Hermann (referred
to in the prelude above) and one of the most prestigious
bike tour operators in Europe (I wont name them!)
also rent & service their bikes from Karl.
I
have earlier ridden by buddys 2008 RT in
Saudi Arabia, but this 2010 DOHC model bike seems
to have some more punch in its engine. My only
gripe about this bike is the positioning of the
new turn signal switch (which for the first time
BMW has made into one single switch on the left
side like most of the remaining biking world does),
as the audio system volume control ring between
the switchgear & left handlegrip takes up
space making it difficult for my thumb to easily
reach the indicator switch. Anyway, I reach my
accommodation and take my wife out for a small
familiarization
ride
for dinner and some minor essential purchases.
The dinner at McDonalds had the first comic situation
of our trip when I said no pork in my chicken
burger- the lady who did not speak english
said OK no-no and I got my burger
with 2 buns and some lettuce in between- The chicken
was also removed!!! We tested the GPS and our
all-important Chatterbox rider to passenger intercom
(no Bluetooth stuff, just the old fashioned cable
type intercom). They all work well and we are
ready for our big day tomorrow.
Acknowledgements
Before
I start the report, my sincere appreciation &
thanks to my wonderful wife, who on her maiden
bike tour coped very well with all the challenges
(including overcoming her fear of heights in the
high mountain ranges of the dolomites) and inspite
of biting cold riding conditions, she managed
to remove her gloves many times and clicked all
the wonderful pics & videos from the pillion
seat of the bike & handled all the trip logistics.
OK, we both shoot with simple cameras & download
the pics. So dont expect us to use any hi-tech
image enhancing softwares etc.
This
report would also be incomplete without conveying
my sincere heartfelt thanks to the members on
the Advrider & Horizons Unlimited forums who
guided me with all the necessary routes &
other information. So a very special thanks to
Philofax(Phil), on2wheels52(Jim), TexPaul, PFFOG,
MichaelJ, RTLover, Fabio, Andysr6, El Aleman,
jrob0311, jgconzemius & my local riding buddy
Skander. Also, to my dear brother manuka for his
encouragement.
Just as an indication, this is the complete trip
route we did
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